These are possible clownfish/anemone combinations. The following indicates the
most preferred anemone to least preferred for each type of clownfish. THERE IS
NO GAURENTEE THEY WILL MATCH UP WITH ANY ANEMONE.
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False Percula Clown Amphiprion ocellaris
Carpet anemone
Ritteri anemone
Saddle anemone
Bubble anemone
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Percula Clown Amphiprion percula
Carpet anemone
Ritteri anemone
Saddle anemone
Bubble anemone
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"Sebae" or Clarkii Clown Amphiprion clarkii
Sebae anemone
Long Tentacle anemone
Ritteri anemone
Carpet anemone
Saddle anemone
Bubble anemone
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Tomato Clown Amphiprion frenatus
Bubble anemone
Long Tentacle anemone
Sebae anemone
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Maroon Clown Premnas biaculatus
Ritteri anemone
Bubble anemone
Long Tentacle anemone
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Pink Skunk Clown Amphiprion perideraion
Long Tentacle anemone
Sebae anemone
Ritteri anemone
Carpet anemone
Saddle anemone
Bubble anemone
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Bubble anemone = Entacmaea quadricolor
Long tentacle anemone = Macrodactyla doreensis
Sebae anemone = Heteractis malu
Ritteri (Maroon) anemone = Heteractis magnifica
Carpet anemone = Stichodactyla gigantean
Saddle anemone = Stichodactyla haddoni
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In regards to the compatibility list it should be noted that captive clowns will not always take to
an anemone regardless of the fact that the chosen anemone is a suitable host. It is best to try
and pick a clown that is already living with an anemone otherwise it is not a sure bet that they
will accept each other.
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Keeping anemones is possible. Feedings are required as often as twice a week or as little as twice a
month. Anemones get approximately 80% of their nutrition from photosynthetic processes, but they
do require physical feedings of shrimp, squid, brine, silversides, etc. to maintain an equalized balance
with their zooxanthellae
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Anemones are actually fairly complex creatures, and lighting requirements need to be met before
purchasing one. Before considering placing one in a system, it should be noted that they will limit
your choice of corals in future (should you feel you are interested in corals later on).
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Anemones move on a regular basis eventually finding a semi-permanent location in the tank. But
sooner or later they will wander again. This is a consideration because anemones are VERY
aggressive creatures and they will try to sting a competing coral into submission.
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When picking an anemone they should show immediate retraction when touched. They should be
physically attached to something within the tank and have coloration within their bodies. A
translucent anemone may mean that it has expelled its zooxanthellae and a starving anemone may
take 3 or more months to die. Studies have shown that even naturally white colored anemones do
poorly in captive systems. Any anemones purchased should be of the pink, brown, red, green
variations. BEWARE THAT SOME BRILLIANT COLORS ARE FAKE. THE ANEMONE HAS
BEEN DYED. This color will fade and may kill the anemone.
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Much like many corals anemones will always have a period of "cleaning" for lack of a better term.
During this period the anemone will retract its tentacles into itself and a small amount of waste will
be expelled (usually brown in color with notable balls of matter within). This period can last 48
hours. Should the anemone be retracted for any longer a period of time then it is very likely it is
dying. Remove it before it falls apart. Should an anemone get sucked into a pump or powerhead,
just unplug the pump and don't touch. If it hasn't been damaged by the impellor it may slowly pull
itself out.
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If this all sounds too complicated then it is probably best not to keep anemones. However, the
relationship between anemones and clownfish is remarkable and with enough diligence, healthy
anemones can be maintained.
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